I was holding a pig-out for friends: a grand dinner with a startlingly well-balanced menu, so long as it was pig. We started with a pig’s liver and lean meat terrine, encased in trotter jelly and the strutto fat, and served with capers and gherkins. On top I laid snippets of Spideypig’s ear, brined for five days, and fried till they were crisp. That went down all right. Then there was a bonne bouche of roast pork fillet slices, with a spicy apple sauce. Gone in a second. Finally, served on a mound of puy lentils which I’d boiled in pork stock, the great baby’s arms of the cotechini. And they scoffed the lot of them – the sausages surprisingly pungent for something made largely of skin and fat. Everyone got a going-home present of half a dozen salsicce. I think it was the best dinner party I’ve ever cooked.
And what of the children, you might wonder. There have been neither tears nor nightmares. They’ve declared Spideypig’s bacon very good – my son, who likes to cook breakfast on Saturday, is impressed that when you put it in the pan there’s no need to add any cooking oil. And no evil white gunk comes out. He thinks roast pork may be a competitor for his usual favourite meat: beef steak, well done. And my daughter? As we drove home from the pig-butchering she looked out of the window at the first of the spring lambs. “Can we get a lamb? Please!” she asked. We waited expectantly for her next line. “We could eat him.”